2017 Polz Ried Hochgrassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc

“Wherever in the world Sauvignon is grown, even the very best must be measured against the best of the Styrians” – Wine Advocate

Appy Friday, everyone!

We know as a loyal operative you are the kind of open-minded connoisseur that appreciates the surprise of finding crazy complex, world-class quality wines from all corners of the globe. Today’s Sauvignon Blanc? It would stand toe-to-toe with the best in the world – and it’s under $40!!!

“Tell me how old you think this is,” our good friend and local Master of Wine, Martin Reyes MW challenged us, pouring our first taste. The wine was positively electric. Youthful aromas of intense citrus and spicy fresh herbs wafted from the glass, while on the palate there was a mild nuttiness with complex notes of flint and spice that belied a little maturity. Overall, there as a density and almost grainy texture.

“It’s exceptional,” we said, “one of the best Sauvignon Blancs we’ve had in a long time!” Guesses ranged from two to five years old.

“Not even close,” Martin smiled. “It’s a 2017!”

The world of wine is vast, and there are still far-flung corners the produce exceptional wines that have yet to hit the mainstream. Styria (or Steiermark in German) is one of them. Located in Southern Austria, it is an out of the way wine region with a long history of quietly making some of the best dry white wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc, in the world. The Wine Advocate explained a couple of years ago, “For many years, Styria in the south of Austria had not played a role in The Wine Advocate. Yet Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot varieties of the highest class are produced here, mostly on lime-rich as well as volcanic soils. Wherever in the world Sauvignon is grown, even the very best must be measured against the best of the Styrians gathered here.”

And within Styria, Polz is one of the best-of-the-best. “Although they started with only four hectares of vineyards in 1984, the estate of Walter and Eric Polz is today not only one of the largest but also one of the best-known in all of Styria,” explains Vinous. “Brothers Walter and Erich Polz have always produced very good to excellent wines, but with Erich's son, Christoph, having taken the responsibility in the cellar (in 2011), the wines have become even more precise, fresh and elegant.” adds Wine Advocate.

And the Hochgrassnitzberg vineyard, though the name may be intimidating, is one of their crown jewels! It is classified as the Styrian equivalent of a “Grand Cru” (GSTK). Located on the border with Slovenia, its vertiginous 65° slope, South-Western exposure, and well-draining sandy soils give the Sauvignon Blanc growing there a ripeness, dense concentration, and power easily matches the best of the Loire, Bordeaux, or anywhere else in the world.

And compared head to head (Dagueneau Pur Sang - $175, Vacheron L’Enclos des Remparts - $220, Ornellaia Bianco - $285, Haut-Brion Blanc - $900, Screaming Eagle - $3k+!) it becomes obvious what a value this wine is. Especially at 35% off!

This wine is so incredibly youthful and brilliant, it is just now starting to drink in its prime. You don’t have to take our word for it. Note the Wine Advocate review mentioned it “still needs a few years of maturation” and to “Drink 2024 – 2036”, with German wine expert Anne Krebiehl MW of Wine Enthusiast saying the same!

We snapped up every bottle that Martin had. But it wasn’t much. If you enjoy crazy complex, world-class whites, grab a few for now and a few for the cellar ASAP!

96 Points – Fallstaff “Light greenish yellow with silver reflections. Fresh herbal savouriness on the nose, ripe gooseberries, minerality, a hint of lychee, delicate pineapple. Juicy, full-bodied and elegant on the palate with fine yellow stone fruit nuances, fine acid structure and a savoury touch. It lasts a long time with discreet fruit sweetness in the back palate and has great future ageing potential.”

96 Points – A La Carte Wein-Guide “Youthful color, greengage plum, ripe gooseberry, floral notes, full-bodied, dense and balanced, elegant drinkability, fruity integration on the finish, with lingering kumquat and pink grapefruit.”

94 Points – Wine Advocate “The 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Ried Hochgrassnitzberg GSTK HG shows a fine yeasty note as well as ripe and intense fruit with lots of flesh and fine spice. Juicy but also very yeasty and almost grainy in the mouth, with good mineral spice and length, this is a tight, spicy and dense HG that still needs a few years of maturation. 14% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in Grafenegg in September 2021. Drink 2024 – 2036”

94 Points – Wine Enthusiast “Smoke and notes of grilled hazelnut play about the creamy apricot fruit on the nose. The creamy palate still breathes some of that smokiness but mellows out into a lovely, creamy, concentrated display of apricot, lemon brightness and cream. The finish adds zestiness. While this is exciting now, some bottle age will round it out. Drink now–2035.”