2021 Juan Carlos Sancha 'Cerro la Isa' VS Rioja Alta Blanco

There’s a NEW Rioja, and representing that, here’s a whole other realm of 5-10 case lots of WHITES comparable to the greatest in the world, by up-and-coming producers that make just a barrel or two.

This year, an Antonio Galloni’s Vinous article titled The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths confirmed what Agent Noir witnessed firsthand during his most recent visit: “Today, Rioja has two speeds. The first is set by the big producers who are responsible for the region’s worldwide fame and its association with extensive oak aging. The second is the more dynamic side, where producers display pride in their place of origin and stylistic choices, more interested in bringing out individual characters than adhering to an established style.”

Perhaps Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate explains this evolution (or revolution if you will) best with this example: “Rioja had a structure that might be closer to (old) Champagne than to any of the other regions from France, where large wineries would source grapes from small growers and produce branded wines, which would more often than not be blends. But just like Champagne changed from that single model to having more vignerons, that is also happening more and more in Rioja. These grape growers stopped selling their grapes or wines and started bottling and selling them themselves.”

They fascinatingly coexist and thrive today. The most established big producers continue to ratchet up quality, while the tiniest ones redefine the region’s potential of individual terroirs.

Sancha is the Don Quixote behind the new Rioja movement, no doubt. Per Decanter “Rioja owes much to university professor/vigneron Juan Carlos Sancha for his recuperation of rare varieties.” He is one of the architects behind the rigorous and official Viñedos Singulares designation to set the most distinct wines of the region apart and has saved many indigenous varietals from the brink of extinction.

This is all we were allocated. What you see is what you get.

93 Points – Decanter “A tasting of wines celebrating individual vineyard expression proved that while some producers are hesitant to join this relatively new category, there are treasures to be found among those wines that are on offer. Vibrant lemon aromas intertwine with chamomile and white floral notes, complemented by creamy and delicate oak. Green apple and white pepper lead to a robust palate with warming spice. A concentrated and satisfying wine. Drink 2024-2028.”